October 23, 2008

SS09>Givenchy vs. Hermes>American Outlaws


Givenchy and Hermes-two of Paris' most classic and well-traveled labels, took a leap into the Wild West for Spring. Gautier and Tisci continue to pump youthful vision into their sacredness. Consistent for both are the monochromatic, if not dual-tones looks that beg to retain their muses' refined elegance. The boys are fully prepared to take the edgy and cool modern woman where she wants to go. Despite a boderline tacky choice of theme for the upper echelon of Paris, the individual looks are neither distractive, nor ridiculous. Where it fits is in the marriage of masculine and chic that Givenchy and Hermes believe in.

Givenchy has a surprising lack of detail and accessories. Heavy boots are present, but hardware and headgear are missing. Tisci distributes capes, ruffles, and victorian sleeves to keep the romatic vision of the label amused. The Hermes woman, contrastingly, is gloved, belted, trenched and ready for the Mexican War. Last year's fine silks inspired by India have transformed into the colorful Mexican blanket. Wouldn't be surprised if Gautier was recruited to costume the next Zorro film. As for Givenchy, I always imagined a Cowgirl reinterpretation might be more like Sharon Stone in The Quick and The Dead (heavier on blouses, big hats and belts). Can't say a lady could pull these off in the old west.


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