October 27, 2008

SS09>Trend>The LBD

1. The Streets Muse: Julia Roberts, Pretty Woman

Maison Martin Margiela, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Jil Sander

2. The Classic Muse: Audrey Hepburn, Breakfast at Tiffany's

Gianfranco Ferre, Christian Dior, Lanvin

3. The Avant Garde Muse: SJP, Sex and the City

Gianfranco Ferre, .., Francesco Scognamiglio

4. The Romantic Muse: Marion Cotillard, La Vie en Rose

Alberta Ferretti, Valentino, Balmain

5. The Night Owl Muse: Isabella Rossellini, Blue Velvet

Balmain, Sophia Kokosalaki, Hussein Chalayan

October 23, 2008

SS09>Givenchy vs. Hermes>American Outlaws


Givenchy and Hermes-two of Paris' most classic and well-traveled labels, took a leap into the Wild West for Spring. Gautier and Tisci continue to pump youthful vision into their sacredness. Consistent for both are the monochromatic, if not dual-tones looks that beg to retain their muses' refined elegance. The boys are fully prepared to take the edgy and cool modern woman where she wants to go. Despite a boderline tacky choice of theme for the upper echelon of Paris, the individual looks are neither distractive, nor ridiculous. Where it fits is in the marriage of masculine and chic that Givenchy and Hermes believe in.

Givenchy has a surprising lack of detail and accessories. Heavy boots are present, but hardware and headgear are missing. Tisci distributes capes, ruffles, and victorian sleeves to keep the romatic vision of the label amused. The Hermes woman, contrastingly, is gloved, belted, trenched and ready for the Mexican War. Last year's fine silks inspired by India have transformed into the colorful Mexican blanket. Wouldn't be surprised if Gautier was recruited to costume the next Zorro film. As for Givenchy, I always imagined a Cowgirl reinterpretation might be more like Sharon Stone in The Quick and The Dead (heavier on blouses, big hats and belts). Can't say a lady could pull these off in the old west.


October 13, 2008


Fetish fashion vs. Sex appeal
Rebellion vs. Captivity
Self-Expression vs. Repression
Feminism vs. Marianismo

Top row: all Balmain; 2nd row: all Maison Martin Margiela
3rd row: all Narciso Rodriquez;
4th row form left: Givenchy, both Herve Leger by Max Azria
5th row from left: Jean Paul Gautier, Dsquared2, Celine
6th row from left: Chanel, Vivienne Westwood, Thakoon
Bottom row: Collette Dinnigan, Bernhard Wilhelm, Rodarte