SS09>TREND>Bondage

Fetish fashion vs. Sex appeal
Rebellion vs. Captivity
Self-Expression vs. Repression
Feminism vs. Marianismo

Top row: all Balmain; 2nd row: all Maison Martin Margiela
3rd row: all Narciso Rodriquez;
4th row form left: Givenchy, both Herve Leger by Max Azria
5th row from left: Jean Paul Gautier, Dsquared2, Celine
6th row from left: Chanel, Vivienne Westwood, Thakoon
Bottom row: Collette Dinnigan, Bernhard Wilhelm, Rodarte

SS09>TREND>Aves

If i've learned anything from this fashion week, it's that a lot of the clothes for spring don't make sense. Yeah, the recession messes things up a bit. So maybe we can't afford the glitz and sprightly detail of last year. Fashion is function blah blah. But a long way from "pretty", it's hard to discern any significance of the modern woman being likened to-a bird. Designers have attached wings, feathers, webbed feet, and what looks like a flying saucer for Martin Margiela. Darwin once claimed, it is the species most adaptable to change that survives. I suppose everyone has they're own way of coping.

From top left, left to right: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Rick Owens, Martin Margiela;
Francesco Scognamiglio, Dsquared2, Comme Des Garcons;
Martin Margiela, both Gareth Pugh
Both Francesco Scognamiglio, Hussin Chalayan

SS09>TREND>Jumpsuits

Not quite your racy crime fighting catsuits, tomorrows jumpsuits are rather skydiving chic. Consistent with the masculinity of next spring, they replace the skirt and even threaten the suit. Who would have thought a jumpsuit could become a safe fashion statement? Sure they eliminate doubts of comfort and function, but will this new sportif be worn by society women? After all, Halston and Gautier have jumped on the bandwagon.

Top left from left to right: Missoni, Jean Paul Gautier, Max Mara;
DKNY, Halston, Rachel Roy;
Roberto Cavalli, Etro, Gucci;
Below: Hussein Chalaya, Anne Valerie Hash, Derek Lam;
DKNY, Danielle Scutt, Dries Van Noten