October 3, 2008

SS09>TREND>Aves




If i've learned anything from this fashion week, it's that a lot of the clothes for spring don't make sense. Yeah, the recession messes things up a bit. So maybe we can't afford the glitz and sprightly detail of last year. Fashion is function blah blah. But a long way from "pretty", it's hard to discern any significance of the modern woman being likened to-a bird. Designers have attached wings, feathers, webbed feet, and what looks like a flying saucer for Martin Margiela. Darwin once claimed, it is the species most adaptable to change that survives. I suppose everyone has they're own way of coping.





From top left, left to right: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Rick Owens, Martin Margiela;
Francesco Scognamiglio, Dsquared2, Comme Des Garcons;
Martin Margiela, both Gareth Pugh
Both Francesco Scognamiglio, Hussin Chalayan



SS09>TREND>Jumpsuits




Not quite your racy crime fighting catsuits, tomorrows jumpsuits are rather skydiving chic. Consistent with the masculinity of next spring, they replace the skirt and even threaten the suit. Who would have thought a jumpsuit could become a safe fashion statement? Sure they eliminate doubts of comfort and function, but will this new sportif be worn by society women? After all, Halston and Gautier have jumped on the bandwagon.




Top left from left to right: Missoni, Jean Paul Gautier, Max Mara;
DKNY, Halston, Rachel Roy;
Roberto Cavalli, Etro, Gucci;
Below: Hussein Chalaya, Anne Valerie Hash, Derek Lam;
DKNY, Danielle Scutt, Dries Van Noten


October 1, 2008

SS09>TREND>Achromatic




Last spring colors were a sign of hope that led ready to wear through an optimistic season. Yellows, pastels, and metallics sprouted in every collection. Like the economy that forecasts a decline in revelry, the women of next season dress for little to celebrate. Nudes and beige's are prevalent as models are stripped to the basics. Neutrality is safe, and stresses a need for only the essentials. When I see a woman sporting beige, I think she's being sensible.




From top left, left to right: Martin Margiela, Balenciaga, Helmut Lang;
Narciso Rodriguez, Bottega Veneta, Calvin Klein;
Jean Paul Gautier, Prada, Anne Valerie Hash;
Bottega Veneta, Derek Lam, Max Mara

SS09>TREND>Emerald City




We've seen her ruby red slippers retransformed this fall. And while Dorothy's baby-blue checked gingham dress and pigtails are nice, the peasant look's been tossed into the past. Emerald City, the fictitious capital of OZ, is a fit metaphor for the future. These bejeweled, glitterfied, and patchwork garments are some of the few strips of color in the futuristic spring collections. in 2009, shape becomes a new luxury, as tomorrow's woman is urbanized and new worldly. If Dorothy could reemerge from Emerald City in 2009, this is how she would look. Her signature look is so Cavalli last spring.




Clockwise from top left, left to right: Emilio Pucci, Balmain, Etro;
Roberto Cavalli, Malo, Betsey Johnson; YSL

Marilyn Monroe & the Media, 45 years later




The notion of being able to know Marilyn Monroe is so contagious the years the media will spend to revive her will greatly outlive her physical presence in motion pictures. Vanity Fair put her on the October cover to celebrate its 25th Anniversary. The headline reads: Unlocking the 45-year-old Marilyn Monroe Mystery: what her private papers reveal about her life and death. The picture is photoshopped in a horrifying manner so as not to reveal the effervescent movie star; rather a freakishly enlarged, drugged evocation of the past.

America will never be bored with the life of Marilyn Monroe, because in the press her platinum innocence is constantly at battle with the lingering uncertainty of her death. For the past two years, photographer Mark Anderson has acquired access and photographed possessions of Marilyn's that include but aren't limited to furs, jewelry, handbags, love letters, fan mail, and her will. The article mentions Anderson's difficulty with the revelations, having had many sleepless nights and on occasion calling his wife "Marilyn".


I've seen thousands of photographs of her, but only now watched her in a film for the first time. Between "Happy Birthday, Mr. President" and entertaining the troops in Korea, I disposed her as a misplaced vixen. Deeply misguided, accidentally famous. Watching Some Like it Hot projects an entirely different person. As Sugar Kane, Marilyn becomes the anti-Julia Roberts; this America's sweetheart has more two-dimensional love ambitions. She is as innocent as she is seductive. "I'm not very bright," she repeats in her careless, wispy voice that reminisces Sleeping Beauty. Her huge brown eyes roll towards the sky when she is bewildered, sad, or astonished. "Woooooooonderful!" she yelps.

Monroe only teases a man in one scene, as she tears a piece of chicken out of her lover's hand and graciously wraps her lips around him. This is how Marilyn Monroe seduces a man? He rejects her. She tells him, "it makes me feel just awful!". Two further rejections and she is a wounded songbird telling her audience she's through with love forever. Classy, cute, platinum, hopeful, and dressed in furs-her packaged perfection is bursting with vibrant energy.

"Every guy wanted to take her home in his pocket," castmates said of Marilyn. "Jean Harlow, Rita Hayworth, Lana Turner-they all had a tremendous amount of sex appeal, but what Marilyn had was that little extra pinch of salt where she mixed sensuality with innocence. She was magic."


Marilyn once professedly endowed herself to the public, because she knew she never belonged to anyone else. At a time when the media was growing in scope and medium, entertainment media was the news' optimistic counterpart. Marilyn just wanted to make the public happy.

The Vanity Fair article of course relates her to the tragic bunch of today's female celebs. "Marilyn has become the patron saint of lost girls of our own era-Lohan and Amy Winehouse and even Britney Spears-gifted performers knocked around by celebrity, constant surveillance, and the echos of Marilyn's own self-doubt," it reads.

Yes, self-doubt is inevitable in a public figure. But the three girls are hardly relatable to Marilyn. I was personally annoyed by Lindsay's Vanity Fair cover posing as Marilyn. I doubt people could really fall in love with Britney, Winehouse, or Lohan like [Andersen did] Marilyn, because our sympathy only goes as far as the ups and downs the media has constructed, and god forbid discovering their personal possessions might only relinquish hate letters towards the paparazzi. One last thing: I find increasing disturbance in the media's partially admitting responsibility for Marilyn's death; isn't it easier to perpetually revive a female celebrity while recalling the tragedy's link to publicity suffocation?